Fashion Pakistan Week gets ready to Party #FPWAW14

Sana Safinaz, Deepak Perwani, Adnan Pardesy, Shehla Chatoor sneak peeks
A taste of what Fashion Pakistan Week A/W 2014 has in store

Fashion Pakistan Week  (FPW) is just a day away and some of the best designers in Pakistan are getting ready to show their winter collections. In terms of fashion, winter in Pakistan is about two things: weddings and parties. PLBW covered the bridal angle last month and now FPW is set to show you how to party in style.

Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz Sketch
Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz Sketch
Shehla Chatoor Misaki collection sketch
Shehla Chatoor Misaki collection sketch

Leading the glamour stakes for FPW are Shehla Chatoor, Maheen Karim, Ayesha Farook Hashwani, Faraz Mannan and Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz. Maheen Khan and Sanam Chaudri aim to bring a touch of old school panache to the ramp while Nida Azwer gives classic elegance a modern touch. Deepak Perwani meanwhile promises to bring a combination of contemporary and retro chic to menswear.

With winter finally on its way, designers are leaning towards silks, velvets and leather. Expect to see a lot of black, white, deep maroon and gold on the ramp along with some rich prints. Ishtiaq Afzal Khan is uniquely tending towards pastels with his Aurora (Dawn) collection but elsewhere the mood is glitzy and luxuriant.

Fashion week in Karachi always tends to lean towards western wear and FPW 7 will be no exception. Most designers are showing fusion ranges and there is a heavily western tilt in many collections. This is partly because it’s easier to make an impact on the ramp with such clothing but also because many fashion lovers prefer to wear western in winter. We should see a lot of jackets, capes, shrugs and dresses on the ramp but there are also those who are championing Eastern wear – saris, harem dhotis and even lenghas.

The full schedule for Fashion Pakistan Week Autumn Winter 2014
The full schedule for Fashion Pakistan Week Autumn Winter 2014

FPW includes high street brands, menswear collections and luxury pret. Funk Asia, Gul Ahmed, Levis and Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz will be showing some of the great fashion that is available off the high street in Pakistan. Nauman Arfeen and Emran Rajput will be showing menswear, as will Deepak Perwani who is showing a menswear collection for the first time in 10 years.

As for the rest, the stellar lineup promises plenty of brilliance. Luxury pret is something that means wildly different things to different designers so we should see everything from cocktail dresses and saris to simple tunics. Let the party begin.

So who’s showing what? Dawn has been behind the scenes for sneak peeks from all the designers showing at FPW and there are some fabulous collections in the offing.

Maheen Khan will be closing fashion week with her “To Karachi with Love” collection. This is an ode to the trendy, sophisticated Karachi of the sixties and seventies. The collection is inspired by women who were rooted in the east but modern in their interpretation of the eastern styles. Think of western coats and capes thrown casually over saris or ghahraras. The ensembles had minimal embroidery but oozed glamour.

“The woman I’m dressing is very much centered in the 21st century” says Maheen Khan.

Shehla Chatoor's Misaki collection uses a combination of Japanese prints and weaving techniques
Shehla Chatoor’s Misaki collection uses a combination of Japanese prints and weaving techniques


Shehla Chatoor is looking to the orient for inspiration once again with her Misaki collection. Shehla is one of Pakistan’s best ramp designers and manages to unite artistry and oomph in her collections. She will be combining prints based on Japanese paper folding screens with weaving & braiding techniques from Japanese baskets and Samurai armour. As ever, Shehla is in tune with international trends so watch for sport chic, voluminous skirts and statement jewellery in her collection.

Sanam Chaudri’s collection is a homage to her nani and bears the same name as her grandmother, Bano. Harking back to a more modest era, Bano is a collection all about subtle sensuality. It’s about celebrating femininity without revealing skin, something that sits well with Sanam’s aesthetic sense. Expect snug kotis, harem dhotis, boleros and sweeping saris in vintage shades of ivory, deep maroon, black and burnished gold.

Maheen Karim is one of Karachi’s most popular designers for ballgowns and sophisticated bespoke eveningwear. Her Ravissant collection features velvets, nets, chiffons and lames as well as luxe prints on charmeuse. Look out for some seriously glam western evening wear including pencil dresses and power shouldered evening jackets.

Ayesha Farook Hashwani’s Baroque collection is based on rich tactile fabrics and colours. It features capes, jackets and shrugs in velvets and rich silks in tones of Black, Gold and Maroon. Ayesha is known for her elegant fusion cuts so expect some beautiful draping along with her signature sumptuous embroidery.

Adnan Pardesy's Labyrinth collection in the making
Adnan Pardesy’s Labyrinth collection in the making

Adnan Pardesy is the man who put woven gota on the ramp at the last FPW. This time round, his Labyrinth collection draws inspiration from cultures as varied as Greek, Japanese and African. Expect labyrinthine twists and drapes of fabric as well as intricate embroidery in a mainly monochromatic palette. The accessories for the show should be a particular highlight – they have all been made in-house, including the jewellery.

Nida Azwer’s style is quintessentially classic but this time round Nida is showing a fusion collection. Her pret a porter “Renaissance” collection for FPW pairs lenghas and saris with jackets and crop tops. The collection can be worn as separates or put together into complete ensembles for funky wedding wear. Nida has used digital and screen prints for the collection as well as laser cutting and hand embroidery.

A glimpse of Nida Azwer's Renaissance collection FPWAW14
A glimpse of Nida Azwer’s Renaissance collection

Faraz Mannan’s “Shanghai” collection is a resort collection focusing purely on western wear. Faraz is not showing any of the sort of Eastern luxury pret that included at FPW 6. This collection consists primarily of separates such as tweed jackets, embellished gowns and skirts, crop tops and flared pants. Faraz drew inspiration from a recent trip to Shanghai for this cosmopolitan collection in tones of black, blush pink and rose gold.

Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz FPWAW14
Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz

Sana Safinaz are showing two collections – a luxury pret collection by Mohsin Ali and a retail pret line by Ather Ali Hafeez.

Ather Ali Hafeez for Sana Safinaz will show a vibrant Bohemian collection that has a distinctly retro vibe. The collection will apparently focus on a more modest approach to fashion, which is smart given the mass market demographic for the label. It’s a light-hearted collection in muslin, satins and silks that reflects spontanaiety and quirky feminity. Watch for Safinaz on the red carpet in a cape from this collection.

Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz meanwhile is all about edgy glamour. The jungle themed collection has a sporty, masculine vibe and is heavy on structure and layering. The collection uses shades drawn from the wild on silks, lame, leather and digital prints. Mohsin Ali is famous for thinking out of the box and this is a collection that fashion lovers are looking forward to. The collection will be accessorized by jewellery from renowned Indian brand Outhouse, which has just been launched in Pakistan by Sana Hafeez Sheikh.

Sadaf Malaterre has a unique design philosophy amongst Pakistani designers. Her minimalist approach focuses on drape and silhouette and her ‘less is more’ approach generates an elegant simplicity. She prefers to make a statement on the ramp rather than reveal much about her collection beforehand, which is intriguing.

Fnk Asia is showing their Folk Spirit collection. Fnk Asia is one of those brands that epitomizes contemporary ethnic chic. Folk accents and bold embroidery are a given in any Funk Asia collection but it will be interesting to see what the cuts and silhouettes they bring to the ramp this time around.

Zaheer Abbas intends to tease with his Neo-Nude collection. Hinting at bare skin through layers of chiffon and net or showing discreet flashes of flesh, Neo Nude is not about voyeurism. Zaheer hopes to use illusion to create a sense of sensual mystery.

Deepak Perwani FPWAW 14
Deepak Perwani FPWAW 14

Deepak Perwani’s “Everything But The Girl” collection is particularly exciting because this is the first time in 12 years that Deepak is showing menswear at fashion week. Deepak started his design career with menswear and is still one of the most popular menwear designers in Pakistan. A Deepak Perwani sherwani is almost de rigeur for the groom in certain circles. This collection will feature everything from T-shirts to embroidered jackets. Watch out for digital prints, fur accents and immaculate tailoring.

Aamna Aqeel is all about bold, contemporary designs. Her ‘Black on Fire’ collection mixes rich Victorian prints with monochromatic silks and velvets. She is using intricate embroidery and a touch of gold on modern silhouettes to portray her vision of feminine elegance.

Nauman Arfeen’s Royal Parade collection is based on his trademark sharp tailoring and fine embroidery. Using threadwork and gold beadwork on homespun raw silks and jamawar, Arfeen is going for a more formal, regal look with this collection. His fairly neutral palette of black and fawn with a touch of lavendar should keep the collection on the right side of chic.

Deepak & Fahad FPW AW14
Deepak & Fahad FPW AW14
Deepak & Fahad FPW AW14
Deepak & Fahad

Deepak & Fahad are showing a versatile monochrome collection that includes everything from gowns to capes to suits. They have focused on pure fabrics including cotton, chiffon, silks, leather and suede. Although they are relative newcomers, they have the potential to do well.

Ishtiaq Afzal Khan has opted for a unique pallete of pistachio green, orange and carbon blue for his “Aurora” collection. He will be showing feminine silhouettes using leather, chiffon, jersey and silk.

Emran Rajput FPW AW14
Emran Rajput FPW AW14

Emraan Rajput’s “Alpha” collection is a military collection that uses camouflage prints, combat boots and military jackets for a tough feel. Military has been done on the ramp so many times that it is incredibly difficult to pull off a modern sequel look. It will be interesting to see whether Emraan manages to give a contemporary twist to his military collection.

Gul Ahmed are showing a western collection in deep, rich colours. The fabrics used, including velvets, silks and karandi are all part of their latest winter collection which is available in-store. Expect to see sweeping skirts, capes, jackets as well as some of their latest shawls.

Levis will be showing a selection of their winter collection.

This article by Karachista editor-in-chief Salima Feerasta first appeared on Dawn.com

Copyright 2015 Karachista. All rights reserved
Salima Feerasta
Salima Feerastahttps://karachista.com
Salima Feerasta is chief editor of Karachista.com and one of Pakistan's top fashion and lifestyle journalists.

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